Jon Cowie and Mark Hughes decided to take on the challenge of rowing the river Danube for CRY and another charity. They are the first rowers ever to attempt the 3,200km journey, which took four weeks to complete and saw them pass through ten countries between the Black Forest and the Black Sea with lots of adventures and problems to overcome. Read their blog below…
“Final preparations”
Jun 01, 2013 6:44 pm
After a few busy days with Fight and Spirit we are ready to head off. The blades are painted, vinyl is on ad the boat packed with a ton of tasty Stoats bars. Many thanks to Iain Weir of Rowing Photography who popped down to take some pictures.
Rain stops play
Jun 02, 2013 3:14 pm
Following two days of heavy, heavy rain in the Alps, the Danube is in full spate. We’re going to have to wait this one out for a while…
Day 1 Update
Jun 03, 2013 8:31 am
It’s an overcast but dry day in Ulm, Germany. The Danube is still high so it looks like we are staying here for a while when the boat arrives this afternoon. We had a brilliant night last night with everyone at Ulmer Ruderclub. They seem to think it’ll take a few days for the water to drop enough.
Day 2 Update
Jun 04, 2013 12:48 pm
The boat has safely arrived thanks to Gary from Aquila Logistics so we are good to go… Except for the record flooding – the worst in 500 years. We learnt a new German word; Katastrophonalarumn. The good news is the water levels are dropping quite markedly in Ulm so fingers crossed we can set off soon. This is unlikely to be before Thursday though. We will need to keep an eye on the news further downstream though.
Yesterday was good as we met Pedja, our Serbian friend who plans on continuing our journey after Istanbul by rowing all the way from Istanbul to Athens. It was great to meet him in person an we will get to meet the rest of his crew in Belgrade when we row through.
Ulm Ruderclub have continued to very generously help us out. Michael and Connie put us up in their house which sits on an Island in the Danube. We even managed to squeeze in a trip to a microbrewery overlooking the Danube.
Day 3 Update
Jun 05, 2013 11:07 am
The Danube is still too high to set off safely so we find ourselves enjoying another day in the fine city of Ulm. The locks are still closed because of the high water but we walked down the river to check the route anyway. We’ve taken advantage of the opportunity to see a bit of Ulm including climbing the minster which is the highest church spire in Europe.
Further downstream the news seems to get worse. It is the worst flooding in Passau since 1501 and Hungary has declared a national state of emergency. The weather has improved though and the water level in Passau is now dropping.
For the time being we get to enjoy Swabian noodles (a bit like macaroni and cheese) instead of super noodles and local beer instead of bottled water.
Day 4 update
Jun 06, 2013 11:29 am
We’re still stuck! The river in Ulm is row-able but downstream it’s still massively flooded, particularly in Deggendorf. So, we must wait. On the meanwhile, we have met a local newspaper journalist: http://m.swp.de/ulm/lokales/ulm_neu_ulm/Zwei-Briten-rudern-von-Ulm-nach-Istanbul;art1158544,2037253.
In Ulm, um Ulm, um Ulm herum
Jun 10, 2013 12:08 pm
‘In Ulm, um Ulm, un Ulm herum’ is a tongue twister meaning ‘in Ulm, around Ulm, all around Ulm’ and that is pretty much what we have been up to. The Danube is still suffering from the worst flooding in 500 years of German records and the worst flooding ever in Hungary so we have been waiting for the water levels to drop before setting off.
All of the German locks have been shut for a while and we have found out that one of them, Oberelchingen, cannot open because the flood levels have damaged the hydrolic gates. It has meant that we have had to revise our plans a little. We plan on taking the boat down to Passau which is near the German-Austrian border and setting off there where the locks are much bigger and designed for commercial traffic.
In the meantime we have continued to enjoy the fantastic hospitality of our friends in Ulm. Mark and I have become features of Ulm Rudderclub, joining in with their training sessions both on and off the water. The top stretch of the Danube is a brilliant place to row with a 10km stretch of uninterrupted water. It was great to finally row on the Danube even if we had to row back upstream. Ulm Rudderclub have this fantastic tradition of sharing a Liesl which is a three litre beer glass filled with one bottle of Prosecco and filled with wheat beer. Excellent re-hydration after an outing.
Frustratingly, the weather here in Ulm has been beautiful and the Danube has dropped back down to almost normal levels. This should hopefully be a good sign that the water levels further downstream will also return to normal soon too. It has allowed us to explore the city though and yesterday we watched the local fishermen train for the summer festival which involves a jousting competition where boats row from either side of the river and try to knock out their opponents. If we stay any longer we will qualify as locals and will be able to take part.
Tonight should be our last night in town and it would be fitting to head to the rowing club for one last Gold Ochsen beer before we head off.
Thank You Ulm
Jun 10, 2013 9:50 pm
Today we are finally leaving Ulm after unexpectedly staying here for a week. We didn’t expect to be stranded here due to the flooding but we could not have asked for a better place to be than Ulm. Everyone here has been so welcoming and generous. In the short time we have been here we have learnt about Ulm and Neu-Ulm, heard about the sparrow of Ulm Cathedral, been to a birthday party in the Alps and even rowed on the Danube river. We have enjoyed Swabian noodles and many Gold Ochsen beers.
Thank you to Andreas, Hanns-Joerg and everyone at Ulmer Ruderclub for your warm welcome and all your help. Thanks to Claudia, Holger and Robin for showing us round town and embracing British drinking games. Thank you Michael, Connie, Bobby and the rest of the Leibinger family for your kind hospitality.
We both owe a thanks to Jörg Hausser. Jörg has helped us with many things for weeks in the lead up to this challenge. He has done everything from calling the locks to working out launching points for our Ungetüm to welcoming us on our arrival. Without Jörg, we would not be nearly as well prepared as we are.
Thank you Jörg and everyone in Ulm and see you all soon.
Jockenstein
Jun 12, 2013 9:28 am
We are off! Yesterday we set off from Passau and made it to the Jockenstein lock. Straight out of a James Bond set, the last German lock came complete with henchmen in uniforms riding trollies. Today we crossed the border into Austria passing some amazing scenery.
Good start
Jun 13, 2013 8:29 am
We got off to a good start yesterday, clearing four locks and 133km, well above our 100km a day target. Jockenstein lock was the last calling point in Germany before heading into Austria. The views as we are rowing are incredible. Lots of little picture perfect Austrian villages squeezed onto the mountainside. Today the target is to get to Vienna. It means another monster day of 130km plus so fingers crossed the lock keepers continue to be kind to us.
Gabcikovo lock, Slovakia
Jun 15, 2013 12:32 pm
Another early start this morning to tackle the Gabcikovo canal and lock. It’s a newish canal which runs parallel to the true Danube for ~30 kms. Made it through after a 2 hr wait which was to allow regular shipping through. Great to have got this lock dealt with as the next one is the Iron Gates in about 900km time. Locks have been our killer! Traffic on the river is definitely picking up now but there still plenty of evidence of the recent floods.
Into Hungary, heading for Budapest
Jun 16, 2013 10:39 am
After an early start, we’ve rowed hard to reach Hungary this morning. Now aiming to get through Budapest before nightfall. Refreshing (and much needed) swim in Danube last night.
Stuck in Budapest
Jun 17, 2013 7:18 am
We made excellent progress yesterday and covered approximately 120km. Rowing through Budapest was a real highlight. However, we’ve run into more trouble. We were stopped by the river police here who have advised us that the river downstream is only navigable for some vessels, because of the high water. Ours is not one of them so we have been forced to stop. We’ve got some great help from a local UoE alumnus but we really need to persuade the powers that be that we’re river-worthy. Time is not on our side after all the delays. If anyone knows a way to help, please get on touch! We’re determined to get to the Black Sea.
On the run…
Jun 17, 2013 7:55 pm
It was a bit of a slow start today when we thought me might get stopped and/or arrested as the Hungarians had shut the Danube to all but essential traffic. It did allow is to refuel on water and some food though and we set off when part of the river re-opened. The river is obviously high and there are signs all around that there has been a lot of damage. It is visible from the driftwood in the river and damage on the bank slowly getting sorted. The water levels here are still very high. Initially, it looks like the banks are lined with bushes but on closer inspection it is the tops of some large trees. There is a high water mark of at least a meter higher than current levels too.
The current is not overpowering at all and I think the Hungarian police are rightly being cautious. All was not lost and we managed to row 86km today with the reward being a cracking sunset on the river.
Birthday in Paks
Jun 19, 2013 11:07 am
The Hungarian Danube remained closed downstream today. As a result, we had an enforced rest day which coincided with my birthday. We’ve recharged and are raring to go. Fortunately, good news too: from 0800 on the 19th we are free to continue south!
Towards Croatia
Jun 19, 2013 11:10 am
We’re now back on the move. And it is hot! 38C yesterday and today. We’ve got a good pattern established: in the early mornings we row together. Once it gets intolerably hot, we row in shifts of 30 minutes allowing time to rest and rehydrate. We hope to sneak into Croatia this evening. Entry requirements and port of entry location are a bit hazy….
Stopped at Hungary/Croatia border
Jun 20, 2013 7:40 am
All was going to plan yesterday until… We were stopped by our friends the Hungarian river police. We’d just gone through Mohacs, the last town before the border. The flooding is still bad here and as a result the border is closed. Another frustrating delay. We hope it will open up later today. Either way, we’re now under massive time pressure to reach the Black Sea. We will not be deterred, however.
Into Croatia!
Jun 21, 2013 11:40 am
We’ve finally made it into Croatia. After camping at the Hungarian border post for a several hours, our luck changed and we were allowed on our way. After ~20km to the border, we went through the motions at the Serbian side. The sky was clear and the moon was bright so we decided to pull an all nighter and row right through. No other river traffic and eerily calm all night (apart from the mosquitoes).
Now we are bound for Novi Sad, totally knackered. Hopefully we can keep up this good pace through Serbia
Belgrade: Red Star Rowing Club
Jun 22, 2013 3:07 pm
Today we made it to Belgrade. Our friend Pedja, who is to take Fight & Spirit on her next adventure, met us in his Kayak and escorted us a short way up the Sava river to Red Star Rowing Club. We were treated to a great welcome, a fantastic lunch (fresh food!), and our first shower in 12 days….amazing. Now we’re on the go again. Here’s hoping the Iron Gates are open…..
Caught in lighting storm
Jun 23, 2013 8:38 pm
After leaving Red Star RC, we planned to do another late night rowing session. However, a massive and spectacular lighting storm forced a change if plan. Oars being great conductors of electricity, we bolted for the shore and found a place to tie up. Thunder was deafening and caused boat to vibrate. Today, up at 4:30am and did a long hard day right through the midday heat. We’re both done over. More tomorrow!!
Checked out of Serbia
Jun 24, 2013 3:32 pm
Up early again and we were rewarded with an unpleasant slog into a strong headwind. We at last arrived at the first of the two Iron Gates and, amazingly, were met with two green lights and went straight on through. This is a massive double lock. After all our previous lock trouble, it was great to knock this one off. We’re also now through the halfway mark: we have ~930km to go to reach the Black Sea. Next target Iron Gates 2 and Bulgaria
The final lock!
Jun 25, 2013 11:54 am
We’ve just gone through our final lock! After all the flood/lock related disasters it’s a massive relief. Iron Gates 2 also had by far the jolliest Kapitan who let us through in splendid isolation and chatted about the Falkirk Wheel and Scottish waterways! Now for Bulgaria. We have ~860km of river left, ~ 150km of sea, and 11 days to do it….
Thank you for all the donations and support so far. We’re now at £5,500 raised between the two charities
Romanian sailors like Ardbeg!
Jun 27, 2013 10:54 am
Eventful day. We had to linger in Vidin to get our passports stamped and boat papers checked before being told strictly to only stop on the Bulgarian side. Then rain all day and by nightfall we couldn’t find anywhere to tie up. The only option was one of the massive freight ships that was moored on the Romanian bank. We tied up… Within two hours we were in their canteen being fed. More hours later, a bottle of Ardbeg down, and we were the best of friends. This morning has been difficult… You may have noticed the trackplot spot took longer than usual to get moving! Next stop: Nikopol
Pushing on through Bulgaria
Jun 28, 2013 6:26 am
The countdown to the Black Sea is on: 558km remain until we get salt water. Then we must row ~130km south to Constanta, to hand over the boat to her new crew. It’s noticeably less built up along the river bank with long, long stretches of tree lined banks. The river’s wide enough that much of the time feels like rowing on a loch.
Both of us are still in reasonable nick but the patented Danube 30 day weight loss plan is certainly proving effective!
Arrived in Romania
Jun 29, 2013 6:00 pm
We’ve made it into Romanian territory proper. We’re yet to check in: that’ll happen in Cernovoda tomorrow. Just 360km of Danube remain between us and the Black Sea (NB we shan’t be taking the Danube-Black Sea Canal) short cut to Constanta. We’ve covered 1860km in 19 days since leaving flood ridden Passau in Germany.
Romania into Moldova and Ukraine
Jul 02, 2013 6:45 pm
We have continued to make good progress on from Bulgaria but have been delayed a little in Romania due to the high winds. Before entering the Black Sea, the Danube snakes north up through Bralia and Galatia (below) before heading east through the delta. When the river headed north, we faced the strongest winds we have had so far on our trip which forced us to drop anchor a few times and wait until the wind subsides.
Last night we were able to row through the night and were rewarded with a spectacular starry sky. After being held up today we plan on rowing late into the evening to get to Tulcia which is the last major town before the river splits into three main paths. We intend to take the most southerly path and head down to Constanta.
Our route will briefly take us past the Moldavian and Ukrainian border, countries number nine and ten on our trip.
The end of the Danube: dolphins and pelicans
Jul 04, 2013 2:24 pm
We’ve made it to the end of the Danube Delta. After a couple of hard days, it was a big relief to finally see the river end and the Black Sea begin. However, the fat lady hasn’t quite sung. We’ve still got to get ourselves and Fight &Spirit safely to Constanta. Given current pace, we hope to finish off on Saturday. Thanks to everyone for messages and support so far – we couldn’t have done it without many different people’s help.
Final day at sea, Constanta in sight
Jul 05, 2013 6:26 pm
Day 2 at sea: the pelicans dried up and were first replaced by (mostly nudist!) holidaying Romanians. Now we’re back in relative civilisation anchored in a bay just 15km from Constanta Port within earshot of beach parties. Last night on the boat!
The end: thank you
Jul 06, 2013 9:52 am
We’ve made it to Constanta- intact. We need to say thank you to many people, without whom this project wouldn’t have got off the ground. Some who deserve special thanks are: Mike Whipp for donating such a solid Manx ocean rowing boat; all of our new friends at Ulm Rowing club (especially Jörg for his master canal logistics throughout, Connie & Michael + family for putting us up and entertaining us for over a week, Hans for driving us and boat to flooded Passau, and to Claudia Barth et al for confirming our taste for German wheat beer…)
Thanks to Charlie Blair (the original Danubian rowing pioneer) for bagpiping us through Vienna, to Imola Varga for keeping the Hungarian river police on our side, and to Predrag Tripkovic and team for the amazing lunch and shower at Red Star BC in Belgrade.
Thanks too to everyone who helped our early crowdfunder effort to source oars, to all of the people and companies who encouraged and sponsored us (especially Gert at Trackplot for providing the GPS tracker and Ardbeg for vinyl wrapping the boat), to Forth Corinthian Yacht Club for giving us free yard space, to Sabrina for designing our logo, to Ant Clifford for driving Fight & Spirit down for her refit, to Francis Carnegy & Emma Coley for providing our comprehensive (and untouched!) first aid kit, to Teems Marine Surveys in Glasgow, and John Higson for ocean rowing wisdom!
There are many more: thank you.
Finally, thanks for following us and encouraging us along the way. When the proceeds from selling the boat come through and are added in, we look likely to exceed the £10,000 fundraising target (but there’s still time to donate)
http://www.rowthedanube.com/charities
Mark Hughes & Jon Cowie
